5.18.2006

Portland, Oregon: Waterfalls, Parks, Roses and SUNSHINE

I was able to escape rainy Boston for a few days and visit Sarah T. in Portland, OR. I had never been to the Pacific Northwest before. In fact, I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't know that Portland is in the northwest corner of Oregon, not somewhere in the center of the state. (Mike, that would be a great geography quiz: where is each capital LOCATED in each state?) When Sarah and I drove out of the city on Monday to go hiking, she pointed out Washington State to the north. "What?" I said. "Really? We're that close?"

Oh yes, I am a product of the United States Public Schools.

It's my last day here and I have had a fantastic time. The weather has been stunning -- 80 degrees most days, 90 on Monday, perfectly clear sky -- and I've been relaxing, which is something I haven't had much time to do lately. Sarah works at Peet's Coffee and is also playing an opera run, so I've had time alone to practice and answer emails, in addition to time bopping around the city.

On Monday, Sarah had the day off, so we rented a car and drove to the Oneonta Gorge and Multnomah Falls area, which is along the Columbia River. We hiked a 5.5 mile route through the park and it's safe to say it was the most beautiful hike I've ever taken. In fact, I'm posting these pictures in a larger size just so everyone can take in the beauty:

Waterfalls!















The big one: Multnomah Falls:



Looking up at Multnomah:



Looking down at its base (is that the correct terminology?):



Sarah in front of the falls:



And there's me:



This photo looks photoshopped to me, but it's not! Doesn't the background look unreal?



In a natural cave:



Flowers running through a small waterfall:



TREES. Made me think of the Stampers and their logging business:



Sarah and the trees:



Washing my hands in the river:



Sarah caught me cooling off with a little more water:



After hiking, we returned to Portland, and stopped at a Lebanese restaurant called Nicholas's. I don't know if it was because I was so tired from hiking, but that food was the best Middle Eastern food I have ever had. And prepared the fastest! The waiter rapidly brought out dolmas, babganoush, pitas straight from the over (filled with steam!), spinach pies, hummus, tahini and the best falafel ever. We scarfed ravenously.

Tuesday, I practiced, and (ahem) took care of some business in town. Then Sarah met me for food and drinks at Bartini, a bar with a fondue list and a list of 60 martinis! I had a blackberry lemon drop and a basil berry-tini, while Sarah had a coconut mojitotini. Those were some good drinks. We had some fondue touted as real Swiss, but I couldn't taste the kirsch. It was good anyway! In addition, we stuffed ourselves full of seared tuna, wild mushrooms over polenta, fried manchego, and white bean and tomato dip. All for a ridiculously low price - I fear I have gotten far too used to Boston restaurant prices.

We then walked to the waterfront:







Portland has parks everywhere. The waterfront was lovely, and Sarah told me about the rose festival that's held there every summer. We saw dragon boats warming up for their appearance in June's festival.

Tuesday night, while Sarah played "Magic Flute", I watched "Legend", which I had never seen. It was pretty good - very Dark Crystal/Labyrinth/80s fantasy movie. Tom Cruise didn't look like he had gone crazy yet. And what ever happend to Mia Sara? Legend and Ferris Bueller - two huge 80s cult hits - and then what? I wonder what she's doing now.

On Wednesday, Sarah was able to get the morning off, so we BIKED to the International Rose Garden. This was my first experience biking in a long, long time. I was pretty nervous, but it ended up being a lot of fun, and I'm looking forward to borrowing my sister's bike for a while. Washington Park, where the Rose Garden is located, is unbelievably huge. It's an old growth forest in the middle of the city! The rose garden itself hadn't come into full bloom, but I took some nice flower photos. My favorites:









I took about 50 flower shots but I won't assault you with them now. I have a feeling I'm far more into them than anyone else would be!

I had a hotdog at the park but still joined Sarah in some Mexican food at Cha Cha Cha's, which is near Peet's. By the way, this week I've been blessed to receive free iced coffees from Sarah. Mmmmmmm! I biked most of the way home, leaving Sarah to her coffee tasting class, and practiced for a bit. When Sarah returned, we met up with Sandy and had Ethiopian food across the river. Oh, so very very good. This trip has been a culinary delight. We then watched a bit of Sarah's unedited movie and made a bunch of playlists for each other.

Sleep came easily.

Today I've been blogging and am meeting Sarah for lunch at a cute little cafe. This afternoon I'm not quite sure what we'll be up to! Portland has been fantastic and Sarah has been a fabulous hostess. I'll miss the weather, for sure. Back to soggy Boston tonight on a Jet Blue red-eye.....



Very Belated Iceland Pics

I can't believe it's been so busy that I haven't been able to post pictures from a trip I took in January! Right now I'm in Portland (pictures of that to be posted soon as well), and I'm relaxing with my friend Sarah (the same Sarah who helped paint my bedroom last year). I've had lots of free time, so I got all of my to-do list done, and now I can do something fun: blog.

I'm using text from my travel journals.

ICELAND: Day 1

Yesterday, I got off the plane and right on the bus, came to my hotel, and decided not to nap. In retrospect, I probably should have, but I thought it would be better if I just went outside and conquered Reykjavik. The sun doesn´t rise until 11 am, so when I left the hotel at 9:45, it was totally dark out, snowing, and the wind was so intense the umbrella was useless! I ended up, bedraggled, at a bar called Privit, which was serving breakfast.

Inside, it's smoky

I sat next to some icelandic women and asked them where I should go. They were quite reserved at first, but then they became chatty. "What do you like?" asked the girl sitting next to me. "Food," I replied, and they laughed. They talked amongst themselves in Icelandic for a bit, and then recommended a fish restaurant. They also said to go to the Blue Lagoon, so I was pleased that I had that all organized already. "Why are you in Iceland in winter?" asked one. "It´s so dark!" But by the time I finished my salty omelet, smoked at least six cigarettes via the girls at the bar, and drank some AMAZING coffee (I allowed myself a couple cups of caffeinated coffee since I had only slept an hour on the plane and I had a whole day ahead of me), it was getting light out. I paid my bill and headed out to explore. Before I left, though, one of the girls told me I should without question go to the thermal swimming pools in Reykjavik. "I go every day," she said. These are quite different from the blue lagoon spa, as I discovered.

I finished walking down Laugavedur and Austurstraeti, the two main shopping streets in town, and noticed the town waking up around me. Stores were beginning to open, people were milling about, all bundled up. After my early morning fight with the snow and wind, I realized that I should have brought a hat to Iceland.

A square near downtown

I first walked to the Reykjavik Harbor, which was on my list of things to see. It was pretty impressive, though also pretty empty. You could see a mountain range on the other side of the harbor, I believe it´s called Eis, but I´m not sure. I trekked about there for a while, and then headed up to the city again.









I went to Lake Tjorn, which is a lake in the middle of the city, surrounded by the Old Town of Reykjavik. It was FILLED with swans and ducks. It was actually quite an amazing sight -- I think I gasped when I saw the amount of birds on the lake.

This doesn't even give a good idea of the amount of birds on the lake

After walking around Tjorn, I made my way back to Laugavedur, but then headed up Skolavorðustigur to see the famous church Hallgrimskirkja. This is the tallest point in Reykjavik, and the view was not disappointing, even though it´s only 75 meters high. The bells began to ring as I was serenely looking out of the tower windows, startling me. I think I lost five years of my life.

That's Lief Eriksson in front

The city from the town

I went downstairs, looked at the interior of the church (very beautiful) and wondered whether or not I should take a nap. My boots were not, apparently, made for walkin´ the slushy streets of Reykjavik. I was soaked, and a wave of exhaustion hit me. I grasped my soggy map and figured out exactly where I was -- I had become completely turned around, and had to go in the opposite direction to get back to Hotel Bjork (which, as far as I can tell, has nothing to do with Bjork. Perhaps it means something in Icelandic?). The sun came out from behind the clouds for a bit, and I recalled walking down sidestreets in Wales... and then it began to HAIL. Yes, that was awesome. I still didn´t have a hat.

I got back to the hotel, and figured I should check out the thermal swimming pools at Laugardalur. They were in the opposite direction from the shopping streets. I changed into sneakers, different jeans, and a sweatshirt and set out again. It was quite a walk, but I made it, and spent probably twice as long trying to figure out the lockers at the bathhouse. Luckily, there was a very kind Icelandic woman working there who spoke perfect English and was willing to give me token after token for my locker. I didn´t spend too long in the outdoor baths themselves -- it was snowing, I was exhausted, and it wasn´t that exciting. So I went back inside, showered, kicked myself for not having a hairdryer, and got dressed. And then I walked home. It was the longest, most uncomfortable walk of my life. It was cold, wet, snowy and slushy, my hair was wet, my scarf kept falling off (as did my hood), my map was soggy, my shoes were soaked, I was functioning on no sleep and a lot of caffeine (which I shouldn´t have had) and a salty omelet -- when I got back to my hotel room, I CRASHED. Hard. I slept a couple hours, got up, realized I was hungry, and decided to go to the hotel restaurant since there was a little snowstorm going on outside. I had salmon and read the local English newspaper (Grapevine -- very Weekly Dig) and the introduction to Mrs. Dalloway. I also enjoyed a drink which I think I should import to the US and make millions: The Viking Malt. Oh yes. It was de-lish-ous. It´s like the very best root beer you´ve ever had, but a million times better and malty. It made my stomach really happy. I then paid, I´m sure, FAR too much for the salmon and headed to bed. I watched a little TV and slept for eleven hours.

Day 2

The next morning I awoke at 9:30 AM Reykjavik time. Reykjavik, by the way, means "smoky harbor". Vik means harbor. You see Vik a lot in town names here; it´s also the root of Viking. I had breakfast in the hotel (free!) -- toast, fruit and yogurt. I´m guessing the fruit is imported -- there´s no way that watermelons could be grown here. I then took my trip to the Blue Lagoon. I'm posting pretty much all my Blue Lagoon photos here, because words can't describe it as well as pictures. Imagine being in a heated, oddly opaque light blue pool, outside, surrounded by snow covered lava rocks, and you can see snowcapped mountains all around you. And the moon. And sometimes it snows and hails yet you are outside in this amazing, salty body of water. I stayed in that pool for FIVE HOURS. I am so relaxed. Plus, I got an UNDERWATER MASSAGE which was unreal.

Smokestacks from the geothermal plant. Viewed from the minibus on the way to the Blue Lagoon.



Pathway to the entrance:



The entrance:



Looking to the left:



My Riven-like Blue Lagoon experience:

























And... i had icelandic lamb for dinner, which was quite tasty. I still don´t think my brain has digested the weirdness and coolness of the blue lagoon. When I got back, I emailed a bit, watched TV, and slept. I slept another 11 hours.

The view from my window at Hotel Bjork:



Day 3

I just got back from a day of walking around Reykjavik with certain goals in mind.
1. Liquor store (check -- bringing back some Viking beer!)
2. Grocery store (check - bringing back some of that de-lish-ous Malt soda stuff -- if I don´t finish it first)
3. Eat a hot dog (Icelandic hot dogs are famous and cheap. Check. They reminded me a lot of... HOT DOGS. Surprise surprise. Actually, the toppings were yummy -- all sorts of sauces and fried onions.)
4. Go to the national museum (Not done! I tried to find it but got lost)
This park was on the way there:

Some of the only trees in Iceland: right here!

5. Go to the famous flea market (check! it was great! I saw all sorts of interesting characters and saw Harðfiske and Hakarl, two fishy icelandic dishes which I would NEVER try, close up)
6. Try skyr again. (check. I had some at Blue Lagoon -- the guide book said this icelandic yogurt was not to be missed. I didn´t particularly like it, so I thought I´d give another brand a try, but found it to be the same -- chalky. Ick)
7. Go to the glasses store. (check. On the plane, the stewardesses had AWESOME glasses. I looked for similar ones here in town, found them, and discovered I looked stupid in them)
8. Go to Svart Kaffi for soup (check! recommended by the tour book. It was great -- yummy soup served in bread bowls, dim cafe lit only by candles -- neat place!)

I also got some ice cream today which was quite tasty. The chalky quality which I don´t like in the yogurt works really well in the ice cream.

----

And that was it: the trip to Iceland. Looking back at the photos four months later, I was flooded with memories and the particular feeling one gets when one is in a different country. I'm so glad I went, though I expect that going there in the summer would be much nicer. When I get the opportunity to go there again, I don't want to miss the nightlife and trekking out to the wilderness to see the original geyser. And, I want to ride Icelandic horses!!!

11.29.2005

Halloween pictures!!!

Check out the pictures from our Halloween party:

Pirate's Booty!!!

8.01.2005

Quick poll.

My next trip, in October, will probably be to either Hawaii or Ireland. I'm not sure which. Any advice? Which would you choose? Or would you go somewhere else entirely? I just saw "Motorcycle Diaries" which was amazing and made me want to travel to South America, but that's going to have to wait until my trip with Sarah in 2007.

7.31.2005

Montana, Part Two; or, how I became relaxed and happy in just seven days.

(Please read part one, which is a couple posts down, if you haven't yet)

The secret, I have discovered, to relaxation and happiness can actually be accomplished at any time -- I just need to turn my cell phone off, hide my computer from myself, and get out into the natural world. However, being able to spend a week in Montana, away from work, obligations, and society in general, made the process much easier. It was impossible for me to fret about my silly life dramas when I was sleeping in a little cabin in the mountains, eating wonderful home cooked food (to the point of gluttony!) at every meal, meeting like-minded individuals, enjoying (as I like to call it) grassroots entertainment (ie, no TV or movies), and riding on horseback nearly every day through the wilderness -- with absolutely no access to a Verizon signal or a T-Mobile HotSpot. (Though I heard if you stood on this one rock by the edge of the ranch. . .)

I wrote in a previous post about getting to the Lazy K Bar ranch. Now on to Day Two! I began the day with french toast and poached eggs, and slung on my boots and my silly gardening hat (which kind of looks like a cowboy hat, but not as cool). We took a half day ride down into the valley, with Kelly and Karen as our wranglers. Now, I had taken a full summer of riding lessons in 2001, but all the knowledge I had gained during those months apparently had taken leave of my brain. The only thing I could recall was that I needed to keep my heels down, and something about leaning forward as you go up a steep path, and backward as you descend. My horse, Lobo (who perhaps was misnamed), didn't really respond to my gentle kicking and coaxing "Come on Lobo! Let's go!" Lobo was pretty set in his ways: he liked to eat. It took me a whole week to become assertive with Lobo and get his head out of the delicious grasses along the trails. Since I needed a lot more riding instruction than simple assertiveness training that day, Kelly suggested we spend that afternoon in the arena, so I wouldn't go flying off the saddle during a trot.





Kelly was a great teacher (during the year, she works in a North Dakota school district), and had me work with her horse, Glory Be, from scratch. Standing in the middle of the arena, I learned how to catch the horse's attention and keep it, sending her around the ring by keeping myself in her line of vision. (I wasn't really good at it, but it was extremely interesting). I practiced walking, jogging, trotting, and loping (at the end of the lesson in the arena, Kelly came with me into the meadow to practice full-on loping). Kelly is the daughter of Carol Van Cleve Kirby, who is one of the owners of the ranch.

Carol and Kelly:



Lobo was much harder to work with than Glory Be; but I was determined to get him to trot when I wanted him to. I think the funniest-slash-hardest thing about Lobo was right when I'd get on him in the morning -- he wouldn't move out of the way to make room for the other horses. Nope. He'd go when he was ready, which was usually when the other horses started to walk in line up the path. I'd sit there, coaxing, kicking, laughing embarassedly, trying to get him to move just a few feet. Ah Lobo, when I return to Montana next year, you'd better believe I'm gonna be able to make you move! Seriously though, I loved Lobo. He was a sweet (yet stubborn, kind of like me) horse who had been rescued from a rodeo (I think?) and thus was a pacer, which meant that he liked to do a pace instead of a lope. (I did get him to lope by the end of the week, though!) His nose was so soft, and he was a beautiful, shimmery chestnut color with a black mane. I hope he liked me too.

Dinner on day two was roast beef, potatoes, salad, and chocolate cake. Dinner is served family style in the lodge, and thankfully all my fellow ranch visitors were truly friendly and welcoming when I would join them to eat. Besides Denis and Dahlia, there were two lovely sisters from Maine:



And here's Denis with Leon and David, two Tennesseans with the greatest accents ever:



There was also a family from New Jersey (the Moles), a bunch of other Tennesseans who were traveling with Leon and David, a wonderful family from Atlanta (the Yates), a mother/daughter/friend trio from Michigan -- all at the ranch to do some serious riding and relaxing. Many had been to the Lazy K before -- the Yates' dad had come with his family as did Mr. Mole.

Day Three: An All Day Ride To Twin Lakes!! Riding all day up a mountain is hard work, and when I returned, I was pretty darn sore. I don't think I'd ever used my whole body that actively, even while rock climbing or weightlifting. Even my green chile omelet and homemade toast didn't prepare me for the muscle-usage onslaught. But SO WORTH IT!!



Here's one of my better photos:



And, first in a series of horse portraits, may I present: LOBO.



When we returned to the ranch, it was dinner time; I sat with the Kirbys and the sisters from Maine and had multiple servings of chicken casserole, tomato salad, bisuits, and green beans. And as the Klepacs said in their comment on the last post, I gave a little post dinner flute recital for the guests, which was a lot of fun, and I thought to myself, I wonder if these mountains have heard Bach before? I know, it's very hippy, but I truly love playing in the midst of open nature (I have an excellent picture of myself in the African bush playing something, probably Mozart, who knows). It's as if you're playing for the sky. (I'm really not furthering a portrait of myself as a tough, yet classy, chick who could kick your butt, am I? Oh well.)

I sat up with the Klepacs and Carol and John Kirby until about 9pm, and as I returned to my cabin, it was still light. I read a book on my porch with a bottle of Blue Moon.

Day 4 Began With French Toast And Two Over Hard Eggs.

I went on a morning ride with Denis and Dahlia, led by Lena, and we practiced trotting and loping in some meadows (this is when I got Lobo to fall into a lope).

Me, Denis and Dahlia:



Then, we went to the brood mare pasture. I don't even know how to begin describing this experience -- I don't think I fully comprehended how awesome it was until after it was over. A two hour car ride away, this is where the mares have their foals. I saw colts that were only a couple of weeks old. We would sit or kneel and they would meander up to us, sniffing, exploring, curious.

This little one was so my favorite:



Here he is with his mom, nursing:



The Mole kids (keep in mind the Mole actually has an accent on it and is pronounced "Molay" - I just realized that without the accent it looked kind of funny) and another little one:



How amazing is this???



Regal, noble creatures:



And, topping it off, a beautiful vista on the way to the pasture:



We also stopped for some KICKIN' milkshakes and burgers at a little place on the side of the road. By the way, this is Molly:



Molly is one smart little Montana cookie who knows how to work the crowd. She actually took some of the photos that appear later in this entry; I tried to take a picture of her with the colts, but all parties were too elusive. That would have definitely been a prize-winning cute photo. I did, however, get this shot:



That's getting printed out.

After a couple hours with the horses, we left to go back to the ranch, eat AMAZING RANCH STEAK and have a square dance!! And here, I must say, I realized that all my ballroom dancing knowledge had departed with the horseback riding know-how. I hope they had a nice honeymoon somewhere and had some dancing bareback babies or something. Because I got nothin' from them. I look graceful here dancing with wrangler Chris, but it's a big lie:



Much better dancers, Tack and Carol, demonstrating a polka:



Next time, I shall burn up the dance floor. Next time.

Sunday morning is a horse vacation day at the Lazy K, so Day 5 started with a campfire breakfast cooked by Kelly and Chris! Truly truly yummy. I had four eggs. I also was pretty tired from the revelry of the day previous, as you can see in this photo taken by Molly:



Here's Molly's Dad, a true cowboy:



I was reading some Camus as I ate my breakfast, and Molly wanted some attention, so I had her read it out loud. I helped with the longer words, like "Nietzsche". It was a little surreal to hear a five year old reading Camus' analysis of the purpose of life.

Anyway, then I relaxed. I slept for a couple hours, read the entire "Kite Runner" (good book, by the way), sat in the hot tub, and practiced. The only bummer was that I slept through a fried chicken lunch. Arghhh! Good thing I had stuffed myself at breakfast. Dinner was a buffet of ham, turkey, chick pea/bean salad, raw veggies, and chocolate cake. I made a marvelous discovery that if you mix the cream with the milk (all ranch produced), the milk becomes even more awesome.

"Dear readers, we produced that delicious cream!"



After dinner, there was a talent show at the lodge! I'm seriously into this grassroots entertainment thing. It was great. I got excellent videos of Tack and Dahlia singing, and staff and guests all put on a great show. I played for everyone, but then felt like I was cheating, so I sang something I wrote for voice and guitar. After the show, Carol played the piano and Dahlia, Dorothy (of the Atlanta Yates), Mary (the cook) and I all sang country western hits! In harmony! Good thing I could sight read, because I had never heard of most of the songs.

The fireplace at the lodge:



The pool table (that's Tyler and Eric, two staff members):



Day 6:
Breakfast: two over hard eggs, french toast, peach juice. I went on a short all day ride to the reservoir, but my group got a little lost, so we had lunch in a grove of pine trees, which was quite lovely. Some of the horses wandered away while we ate, led by -- who else -- Lobo, probably in search of ever-more-tasty grasses. I took a number of horse portraits at lunch. Ladies and gentlemen, may I introduce:

The Lovely NOUGAT



The Charming JUNE BUG:



The Dapper FRITZ:



I tried to capture some of the spectacular views of the meadows and mountains on the ride back to the ranch, but my camera did not do the land justice. Perhaps it's better that the memory is firmly implanted in my mind, so I won't end up using a photo as a crutch. Here's Lena, leading us back home:



And here's me and Lobo, crossing the creek! Thanks to Denis for taking this photo.



When we returned, I had a couple beers with the Klepacs on their porch, and we chatted with some new arrivals at the ranch. It was hard to believe that familiar faces had departed -- and I, too, would be leaving the following day. I tried not to think about it. At dinner, I sat with the Klepacs and the Yates and had stuffed chiles, green beans and salad, and entertained Quill Yates (such a Faulkner name!!) with tales of Jeri, the crazy cat woman of Waban (and my absentee landlord). I sat on the porch following dinner and wrote about my time at the ranch, which was almost up.

Departing from tradition on Day 7, I had eggs, bacon and the homemade toast. One more ride to go, and it was to the falls, led by Carol and Kelly. Words and pictures can't describe how pretty the waterfall and the area surrounding it was, but I'll try.

Here are the falls. Apparently kayaks try to go down this. I'd like to see that.



Looking down, over the edge:



See the rainbow in the mist?



Ridiculously happy:



Ridiculously sad. I was trying to take in the scenery for posterity when Rick, one of the recently arrived guests, said, "You need to have a picture of you looking wistful." So he took this.



On the ride back down, I cried. Truly, I did. Carol, riding behind me, said, "Whenever you're feeling stressed out, just picture the ranch and this land, and go there in your head," and tears welled up as I thought of how wonderful the week had been, how relaxed I was, and how I needed more of all this in my life. And it frustrates me that I can put you all inside my head to experience what I did. Any sort of media, I've realized, can't capture true experience. Pictures, video, whatever -- none of them work. It's all about touching the trees and the animals and breathing the air and talking to the people.

And so, after I ate lunch and sat in the hot tub, I packed, practiced, and got into the truck with John. I said a quick goodbye to Denis and Dahlia because I thought I might cry again. We set out on the long road to Bozeman:





We made a quick stop in Livingston to check out the model railroad, which was very detailed, extensive, and cool, and John introduced me to a fantastic songrwriter named John Prine. And then. . . on the airplane, another crazy flight path back through Salt Lake and Cincinnati, Logan, Blue-Green-Red Lines, Magazine Street, Upton. . . number 10. . . I love Cambridge but I can't wait to go back to Montana. I can't wait to start traveling again in the fall. Our world is very big and I can't just read about it in books.








7.27.2005

oops.

Have to leave for Tanglewood today and haven't put up the rest of my pictures.... but will, as soon as I get back --

7.25.2005

we interrupt this program...

to let you know there's a new movie review on Mike D's site.

7.23.2005

My trip to Montana: The Beginning.

Right now it's one in the morning, so I'm just going to write a little bit, and continue tomorrow. Without question, going to Montana was one of the greatest things I have ever done. Before I left, I thought to myself, "Am I totally crazy?" The answer, of course, is yes; however, I think it's in a good way, and the craziness definitely has awesome results.

I left on Tuesday afternoon, July 12, and took a very long flight path to Bozeman, MT, through Reagan and Salt Lake. Delta is a bit stingy with its frequent flyer rewards these days. With 25,000 miles, you are no longer allowed to pick nearly whatever flight you want -- you have to have 50,000 miles to do that. So I was stuck with three hour layovers and a tour of the country. No matter!! I was going to MONTANA! (and plus, during one of my layovers, I had a taco from a place called Maui Taco which was the most ingenious creation ever: it was a taco WITH STEAK FRIES IN IT. It's true. It was so incredibly awesome that I had to write a little poem about it. And ode, one might say. An Ode to Maui Taco. Here it is:
O brave Maui Chefs
Putting steak fries in your tacos
Such genius is rare.)

I arrived in Bozeman at 11:30 PM Mountain Time, and checked into the Belgrade Super 8. The Super 8 is indeed pretty darn super, by the way! Free breakfast and internet! Nice employees! Very clean room!

My first glimpse of the mountains of Montana was the following morning outside of the Super 8:



I also had a lot of glimpses of a tire company, the "Pony Express" espresso joint, and a highway. The sun was blazingly hot and I worried about the temperature at the ranch. I consoled myself with thoughts of my boots, my wonderful wonderful boots:


Made for walkin'!!

Tack Van Cleve, one of the members of the Lazy K Bar's founding family, picked me up from the Super 8. We then swung by the Bozeman Airport to pick up Denis and Dahlia Klepac , two of the nicest people ever (more on the Klepacs soon!). The Klepacs had been coming to the ranch every summer for about five years; they had actually met at a ranch in Wyoming. The ride alongside the railway was beautiful - meadows and mountains interspersed with small communities; I commented upon our family legend that my great great grandfather on my father's side was killed for his paycheck while working on the Montana railroad. The rest of the family never made it out west to avenge his death, but perhaps the time was now ripe...

We stopped in Livingston to pick up beer, and then made it to the Lazy K! I had nothing to fear about the temperature -- the ranch was about 40 minutes from downtown Big Timber, up in the mountains. The weather was spectacular - low 80s for most days, and even down to the 50s at night!

I stayed in a little cabin called Moonshine. After eating ranch burgers at the campsite (three! mountain air does it for me), quietly getting to know some of the other ranch guests, and feeling the cool rain greet us as we sat around a campfire, I retired to Moonshine to observe the rain from my deck:




And later, the moon came out:



Here's another view of my cabin, from down the hill a bit. The fast white cat is the property of a wrangler named Lena.



I slept well, and awoke at 6:30 the following morning. I did sit ups and push ups and some yoga, and was early for the 7:30 breakfast. And what an amazing breakfast! You can get pretty much anything you want. For me, that meant french toast on most days, with coffee and cream and sometimes fruit and ALWAYS eggs.

More to follow, with photos of the gorgeous land and mountains and the magnificent horses. Now: to bed.